Specialty Fabrics Explained: The Allure of Chiné, Fil Coupé, Matelassé and Cloqué Jacquards

Luxury is often hidden in the details. Some fabrics carry stories not just in their fibers, but in the very way they’re made. Chiné, fil coupé, matelassé, and cloqué are four techniques that show how weaving can go far beyond the ordinary, transforming fabric into something alive with texture, depth, and artistry.

Chiné: Blurred Elegance

Chiné (pronounced shee-nay) is a jacquard technique where the pattern is printed or painted on the warp threads before weaving. The result is a design with a soft, watercolor-like blur—florals that melt at the edges, stripes that feel like they’re drifting out of focus. This intentional imperfection creates an ethereal, painterly effect that no ordinary print can replicate.

Fil Coupé: Cut to Reveal

Fil coupé (French for “cut thread”) is a jacquard where extra threads are woven in to form a pattern, then carefully cut away to leave a design that appears to float on the surface. The cut edges often create a subtle fringe, giving the fabric a sense of movement and dimension. It’s playful yet refined—perfect for fabrics that are meant to catch the light and stand out.

Matelassé: Quilted Without the Stitching

Matelassé (mat-la-SAY) comes from the French word for “quilted.” These fabrics are woven with a special technique that creates a raised, padded effect—like a quilt—without any actual stitching. The result is sculptural and luxurious, often used for jackets, structured dresses, or even interiors when you want depth and softness in one.

Cloqué: The Texture of Air

Cloqué (clo-KAY) means “blistered” in French, and that’s exactly how it looks. By weaving with yarns of different tensions, the surface puckers into raised bubbles or ripples, almost like a three-dimensional relief. Cloqué jacquards have a dramatic architectural quality, making them a favorite for eveningwear and couture pieces that demand presence.

Why They Matter

These fabrics are more than technical feats—they’re proof of how textile design blends science and art. Each technique creates a completely different mood, from dreamy and romantic to bold and sculptural. For anyone who loves fabric, understanding these specialties opens a window into the artistry behind luxury weaving.